Philips Hue Installation in London: Lights, Switches, Outdoor and Secure

• Bridge and set-up: the Hue Bridge or Bridge Pro, bulbs, plug-in lamps, rooms, scenes and voice control
• Ceiling and pendant lights: Datura, Infuse, Enrave, Tento, Aurelle, Surimu, Centris, Ensis and the other UK families, plus Perifo track on its ceiling power supply
• Downlights and spotlights: the Centura, Milliskin, Xamento and Adore recessed spots, Hue GU10 lamps in the downlights you have, and MR16 lamps on 12 V transformers
• Switches and modules: Hue's battery wall switch module, its newer wired modules (most of which need a neutral), and remotes such as the Tap Dial
• Outdoor wall lights and floodlights: Hue's mains range, such as Econic, Impress and the newer 2026 wall lights, fitted where an outside light already is
• Garden lighting: Lily, Calla and the rest of Hue's low-volt range on Hue's outdoor power supply, and Festavia permanent lights along eaves and rooflines
• Lightstrips and TV sync: Flux, OmniGlow and Solo strips, Play light bars, the Play gradient lightstrip and the Play HDMI Sync Boxes
• Hue Secure: the Secure Flood Light Camera, the wired video doorbell with its Secure smart chime, wired and battery cameras, and contact sensors

• Its UK support article on in-wall modules says electrical devices 'should only be installed and connected by electrically skilled people', and that local regulations may prohibit working on wires without a professional
• Hue's wall switch finder suggests asking a qualified electrician to check the wiring if you are unsure, and warns that the neutral may be black in older UK installations
• Signify's general safety leaflet for Hue light fittings says certain regulations require installation 'only by a licensed electrician (e.g. Part P for the UK ...)'. England has no electrician's licence: Part P decides which jobs must be notified to building control, not who may do them
• Hue's Danish site runs a programme for electricians buying through selected wholesalers; Hue's UK site has no equivalent

• No wiring at all: Hue bulbs in existing lampholders, the Bridge, plug-in lamps, Play bars, indoor lightstrips on their plugs and battery remotes
• Not notifiable, and fitted by JACK pros who do electrical work: a Hue ceiling light, pendant or Perifo power supply in place of an existing light, a wall switch module behind an existing switch, and a mains outdoor light or the Secure Flood Light Camera where an outside light already is
• Also not notifiable: new Hue spotlights added to an existing lighting circuit, and a new outdoor socket spurred from an existing circuit for Hue's garden power supply
• Not notifiable, though still electrical installation work: Hue's low-volt garden lights fixed in beds and on walls
• Notifiable, and not booked through JACK: a new circuit from the consumer unit, a replacement consumer unit, and any addition or alteration in the space around a bath or shower (up to 2.25 m high, and 0.6 m out from the bath or tray, or 1.2 m from a shower head with no tray)
• In a residential block of 18 m or seven storeys and up, notifiable work also needs the Building Safety Regulator's approval before it starts, unless it is done under a competent person scheme

• Ceiling roses wired loop-in, so the rose usually has a neutral while the switch box below does not: the reason Hue's battery wall switch module suits so many British switches
• Lighting circuits from before about 1966 that may have no earth: a Class I fitting needs one run first, while double-insulated Hue fittings such as the Datura need none
• A ceiling with another flat above: it is a fire-separating compartment floor, and JACK's own rule is that pros cut no new downlight holes in it
• Solid brick walls and long terraces that stretch Hue's Zigbee mesh, so a garden light may need another mains Hue light between it and the Bridge
• Dimmer switches left from halogen days: Hue says older dimmers made for incandescent bulbs can make LEDs flicker, and Signify's leaflet says Hue fittings must not be connected to an additional dimmer
• Conservation areas and listed buildings, where a light or camera on the front can need the council's consent first

• Leave the switch on and fix a battery remote such as the Dimmer Switch or Tap Dial beside it: no wiring, but anyone can still turn the switch off
• Fit Hue's battery wall switch module behind the existing switch, so the switch sends a wireless command and the light keeps its power
• Where a neutral is available, fit a wired module behind the switch or in the ceiling above the light
• Replace an old dimmer with a plain or push switch and a module, since old dimmers can make LED bulbs flicker and Hue's battery module does not work with dimmers
• Set each light's power-on behaviour on the Bridge, so after a power cut it comes back the way you choose: Hue's default, its last setting or a custom colour

• Outside walls, communal hallways and the street door usually belong to the freeholder, so an outdoor Hue light, a Secure camera or a doorbell on a shared wall needs the managing agent's written agreement
• Flat entrance doors onto a shared corridor are normally fire doors, and nothing is drilled through one without the agreement of the building's Responsible Person
• Many leases restrict cutting into ceilings, and the ceiling to the flat above is a fire-separating floor in any case
• In a rented home, a new ceiling light or switch module changes the landlord's wiring, so get written consent and keep the old fittings
• A Hue Secure camera that sees past your boundary brings in data protection law, GOV.UK's domestic CCTV guidance says, so the view is set with you

A vetted pro prices your Hue job from the products and your photos, and the JACK app shows that fixed price before you book.

Whether the job touches your wiring matters more than how many lights there are. Fitting B22 or GU10 bulbs, setting up a Bridge and plugging in lamps, Play bars or a lightstrip is set-up work. Ceiling lights, Perifo track, wall switch modules and mains outdoor lights are electrical work on your existing circuits, priced for the isolating, connecting and testing each one needs.

Then the home itself: a heavy fitting that has to go into a joist, a high or sloping ceiling, a two-way landing that needs a module at both switches, old cable with no earth, or a long garden run for low-volt lights. On a high ceiling or a long fitting, your pro can ask another pro on JACK to help through the Pro2Pro feature. Several Hue jobs, and devices from other brands, go on one booking for one fixed price.

You buy the Hue products; JACK does not sell them. Accessories the job needs, such as a deeper back box, an in-use cover for an outdoor socket or aluminium channel for a strip, are agreed and added at cost before you book, and so is parking where it has to be paid for. Prefer to pay for time? As a guide, hourly hire is typically £45–£95 per hour for smart home work and £55–£110 per hour for electrical work, and a full-day handyman booking is a flat £350–£400 for up to 8 hours on site, which suits a whole-house Hue fit.