Philips Hue · Switches and modules
Philips Hue Wall Switch Module Installation in London
Updated
The Philips Hue wall switch module is a small battery-powered unit that sits in the back box behind the light switch you already have. The switch's mains wires are joined so your Hue lights are always powered, and the switch then works them wirelessly, which stops anyone flicking the power off and leaving the bulbs unreachable in the app. A vetted JACK pro in London who does electrical work fits it to your own switch, on one-way, two-way or intermediate circuits, for a price fixed in the JACK app before you book.
In short
Yes. A vetted JACK pro in London who does electrical work fits the Philips Hue wall switch module behind your existing switch; it runs on a CR2450 coin cell and needs no neutral, but it does need a Hue Bridge and enough room in the back box. Joining the switch wires alters an existing lighting circuit, which is not notifiable under Part P in England away from a bath or shower, and you can ask your pro for a Minor Electrical Installation Works Certificate.
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Wall Switch Module: key facts
- Battery
- One CR2450 coin cell, lasting at least 5 years by Hue's figure, with a low-battery alert in the Hue app Source: Philips Hue UK: Philips Hue wall switch module (2-pack)
- Neutral wire
- Not needed Source: Philips Hue UK support: wall switch modules
- Class, rating and size
- Class III (SELV), IP20; 43 × 38 × 10 mm Source: Philips Hue UK: Philips Hue wall switch module (2-pack)
- Hue Bridge
- Mandatory; Matter only 'Via Hue Bridge' Source: Philips Hue UK: Philips Hue wall switch module (2-pack)
- Lights it controls
- Hue lights: the manual says 'only compatible with Hue light sources', and third-party Zigbee lights are not promised Source: Philips Hue wall switch module manual (PDF)
- Switches it works with
- One- and two-gang rocker switches, and push (retractive) switches, which add long-press dimming Source: Philips Hue wall switch module manual (PDF)
- Not compatible with
- Switches with built-in dimmers, dimming modules, and combined switch-and-socket plates Source: Philips Hue UK support: wall switch modules
- Two-way and intermediate
- A module at every switch; intermediate switching needs three modules and an extra connector that is not supplied Source: Philips Hue wall switch module manual (PDF)
- After fitting
- 'Even a lamp that is switched off is permanently supplied with mains voltage'; Hue says to turn off the circuit breaker to change a lamp Source: Philips Hue wall switch module manual (PDF)
Product facts come from Philips Hue's UK product pages and support articles, linked beside each fact; where the UK page is silent, a few come from Hue's other English-language sites and say so. Hue changes its range often, so check the model on your box or order and send it with your request. Last checked 1 November 2026.
How the Wall Switch Module is powered and mounted
Inside the back box the module does two jobs. The mains wires come off the switch and are joined in the push-in connector Hue supplies, which leaves every light on that circuit permanently live; the module's own short yellow and white leads then go into the switch terminals the mains wires came out of. From then on the rocker or push button only sends a radio signal, through the module, to your Hue Bridge. Hue's manual is strict about the rest: no neutral or earth in that connector, no mains wire on the module itself, and the supplied leads never lengthened.
That design is why it suits British houses. Most UK lighting is wired loop-in at the ceiling rose, so a switch box usually holds a permanent live and a switched live and rarely a neutral, which is the wire Hue's wired wall switch module and wired on/off switch need. This one runs on its coin cell instead. What it still needs is space: Hue says only to ensure there is enough room in your electrical box and gives no depth, so a shallow box behind an older switch may have to be swapped for a deeper one, agreed and added at cost before you book.
Metal changes two things. A chrome or brass plate has to be earthed, so on an older lighting circuit with no earth the pro keeps an all-plastic plate until the earth is sorted; and retailer listings warn that metal frames and solid brick shorten the module's range, so the pro presses the switch and watches the lights before the plate goes back on. Because the lamps stay live with the switch off, the switch gets a label saying so.
What the pro checks first
- Whether the switch is a dimmer, since Hue says the module does not work with dimmers or dimming modules
- How many switches control the light, so a two-way landing or an intermediate stair circuit gets a module at every position
- The depth of the back box, and whether the switch shares a plate with a socket
- Whether the plate is metal and, if so, whether the circuit has an earth to serve it
- That every lamp on the circuit is a Hue light, and that your Hue Bridge or Bridge Pro is already running
What the pro does on the Wall Switch Module
- Circuit isolated at the consumer unit and proved dead before the plate comes off
- Switch wires joined in Hue's push-in connector, with neutral and earth kept out of it
- Module leads fitted into the switch terminals and the module tucked into the box without straining any connection
- On a two-way circuit, the common and both strappers joined at each switch, with a module behind each one
- Module paired to the Bridge and set as rocker or push, single or dual, with long-press dimming on a push switch
- Switch labelled to say the lights stay live, and the circuit tested before the plate is screwed back
- Ask your pro for a Minor Electrical Installation Works Certificate to record the change to the circuit
How the Wall Switch Module installation goes
- 1Photos of every switch and its plate reviewed, so modules, connectors and any deeper box are agreed before the visit
- 2Module added in the Hue app and assigned to the room or lights it will run
- 3Power off at the consumer unit and the circuit proved dead
- 4Switch unscrewed, mains wires joined and the module connected to the switch terminals
- 5Plate refitted, power restored and each switch position tested
- 6Switch actions set in the app, the label applied and the low-battery alert explained
Before you book: what to send
- A photo of each switch that works the light, with the plate on and the room light visible
- Whether the switch is a rocker, a push switch or a dimmer, and whether it shares a plate with a socket
- Which Hue lights the switch controls, and whether your Hue Bridge or Bridge Pro is set up
- How many modules you have: Hue sells it singly and in 2-packs, and JACK does not sell them
Is fitting the Hue wall switch module electrical work?
Yes, even though the module runs on a battery: the switch's mains wires are disconnected and joined, which changes how an existing lighting circuit works. In England that has these consequences:
- Hue's manual says electrical devices 'may only be installed and connected by electrically skilled persons', and to 'consult an electrician for support when in doubt'
- Under Approved Document P, an addition or alteration to an existing circuit outside a special location is not notifiable, so a competent pro may do it without telling building control
- The special location is the space around a bath or shower; JACK does not book fixed electrical work inside a bathroom's zones, so a switch or pull cord there goes to a registered electrician
- No pro JACK books is registered with a competent person scheme. Ask your pro for a Minor Electrical Installation Works Certificate for the altered circuit
How many Hue wall switch modules does your switching need?
Hue's manual sets one rule for every layout: each switch that controls the light gets its own module.
| Switching | Typical London spot | Modules | Extra parts |
|---|---|---|---|
| One-way, one gang | A bedroom or living-room switch by the door | 1 | None beyond the connector in the box |
| One plate, two gangs | A double switch for a ceiling light and wall lights | 1, with a set of the supplied leads for each gang | None beyond the supplied leads and connector |
| Two-way | Top and bottom of a staircase, or both ends of a landing | 2, one at each switch | None beyond the connectors in the boxes |
| Intermediate | A third switch on a landing between two others | 3 | An extra 4-way connector for the middle switch, not supplied, added at cost before you book |
Hue's support page confirms two- and three-way set-ups work only 'if the other switches are also connected to modules'. A switch with a built-in dimmer is replaced with a plain or push switch first.
How is Philips Hue installation priced in London?
A vetted pro prices your Hue job from the products and your photos, and the JACK app shows that fixed price before you book.
Full pricing guide for Philips Hue installationFrequently asked questions
Does the Philips Hue wall switch module need a neutral wire?
No. It runs on a CR2450 coin cell, so the only wires it touches are the ones already at your switch. That is the main difference from Hue's wired wall switch module, which needs a neutral and so usually ends up at the ceiling rose rather than behind a UK switch.
Is the Philips Hue wall switch module discontinued?
Not as far as Hue's UK store shows: it was listed on Hue's UK switches page, singly and in 2-packs, when JACK checked on 1 November 2026, and no source JACK found says it has been discontinued. In mid-2026 Hue added a wired version that needs a neutral, and that one was out of stock in the UK the same day, which may be where the rumour comes from.
Can I still switch the lights off at the wall after the module is fitted?
Yes, but the switch now sends a command through the Hue Bridge instead of cutting the power. The lamps stay connected to the mains all the time, so Hue's manual says to turn off the circuit breaker before changing a lamp, even one that looks switched off.
How much does Philips Hue Wall Switch Module installation cost in London?
It is a fixed price for your Wall Switch Module, worked out by a vetted pro from the model, a photo of where it is going and what power is there now, and shown in the JACK app before you book. Other devices can go on the same booking for one price. If you would rather pay for time, hourly hire for smart home is typically £45–£95 per hour as a guide.
Often booked together
Wired Wall Switch Module installation
Hue's mains-powered module for smart lights, added in 2026: it needs a neutral, so in many UK homes it goes at the ceiling rose rather than behind the switch.
Bridge Pro installation
Hue's top hub, listed for 150 lights and 50 accessories: placed and cabled to the router, an older Bridge migrated across, and everything the move drops put back.
GU10 Smart Spotlight installation
Hue's mains GU10 lamp, 57.8 mm long, swapped into the downlights already in your ceiling: no cutting or rewiring, which makes it JACK's way to put Hue into a flat's ceiling.
More Philips Hue switches and modules
Philips Hue switch and wall switch module installation
Hue's battery and wired wall switch modules, wired switches for ordinary lights and Hue remotes, matched to the wiring at your switch.
Wired Modules for Non-Smart Lights installation
Hue's in-wall on/off switch (1- or 2-channel) and dimmer for ordinary lights: your fittings stay, and the module behind the switch makes them work with Hue.
All Philips Hue installation guides
Philips Hue installation in London: ceiling lights, downlights, wall switch modules, outdoor lights and Secure cameras fitted by vetted pros. Fixed price first.
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Sources
The device facts and rules on this page come from these pages, checked on 1 November 2026.
Jack All Trades (JACK) is an independent London service. It is not part of, affiliated with or endorsed by Signify, which makes Philips Hue and uses the Philips brand under licence, or by Philips. Philips Hue product names are used only to describe the products JACK pros fit and set up; prices are set by JACK pros, not by Signify, and JACK does not sell Hue products.
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