Which Philips Hue Switch Works With UK Wiring? No Neutral, 2-Way and Intermediate

• The supply, the neutral and the earth meet at the ceiling rose or a junction box near the light
• The cable down to the switch carries a permanent live and brings back a switched live, so the switch box has no neutral
• Some newer or rewired homes do bring a neutral to the switch, so the box is worth checking rather than assuming

• Keeping your current bulbs? Then it is one of Hue's wired switches for non-smart lights. With Hue bulbs, it is a wall switch module
• Is there a neutral in the switch box? If not, the battery module, or the wired dimmer for non-smart lights
• Is there a neutral at the ceiling rose? Hue lets its wired wall switch module go in the ceiling above the light instead of behind the switch
• Is the switch a dimmer now? It comes out first, because the battery module will not work with a dimmer
• Is the plate a combined switch and socket? Hue's battery module is not compatible with one

• Two-way: one module behind each of the two switches. In each box the common and the two strapper wires are joined in Hue's connector, and each module is set up as a single rocker
• Intermediate, with three switches: three modules, plus an extra connector for the middle box that Hue does not supply
• Hue says two-way and three-way set-ups work only if the other switches are also connected to modules
• The pro traces which wire is the common and which are strappers before anything is disconnected

• The light stays connected to the mains, and the switch on the wall sends a radio command instead of breaking the circuit
• Hue's manual warns that a lamp switched off this way is still supplied with mains voltage, so the circuit breaker goes off before a bulb is changed
• The module's own short wires go into the switch terminals; Hue's manual says never to connect the original live wires to the module
• The pro labels the switch so the next person to work on it knows the light is permanently live

• Put Hue's wired wall switch module in the ceiling above the light, where loop-in wiring normally has a neutral
• Run a new cable from the ceiling rose down to the switch. That is an alteration to an existing circuit and not notifiable in England, but it means chasing the wall and making good
• Or choose the battery module, which sidesteps the question

• A photo of every switch plate involved, and say which ones work the same light
• The light fitting or ceiling rose each switch controls
• The Hue products you have, or plan to buy
• Whether the plates are metal or plastic

A vetted pro prices your Hue job from the products and your photos, and the JACK app shows that fixed price before you book.

Whether the job touches your wiring matters more than how many lights there are. Fitting B22 or GU10 bulbs, setting up a Bridge and plugging in lamps, Play bars or a lightstrip is set-up work. Ceiling lights, Perifo track, wall switch modules and mains outdoor lights are electrical work on your existing circuits, priced for the isolating, connecting and testing each one needs.

Then the home itself: a heavy fitting that has to go into a joist, a high or sloping ceiling, a two-way landing that needs a module at both switches, old cable with no earth, or a long garden run for low-volt lights. On a high ceiling or a long fitting, your pro can ask another pro on JACK to help through the Pro2Pro feature. Several Hue jobs, and devices from other brands, go on one booking for one fixed price.

You buy the Hue products; JACK does not sell them. Accessories the job needs, such as a deeper back box, an in-use cover for an outdoor socket or aluminium channel for a strip, are agreed and added at cost before you book, and so is parking where it has to be paid for. Prefer to pay for time? As a guide, hourly hire is typically £45–£95 per hour for smart home work and £55–£110 per hour for electrical work, and a full-day handyman booking is a flat £350–£400 for up to 8 hours on site, which suits a whole-house Hue fit.